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Wool - Wikipedia

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(Top)

1Characteristics

2Processing

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2.1Shearing

2.2Scouring

3Fineness and yield

4History

5Production

6Marketing

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6.1Australia

6.2Other countries

7Yarn

8Uses

9Events

10See also

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10.1Production

10.2Processing

10.3Refined products

10.4Organizations

10.5Miscellaneous wool

11References

12External links

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Wool

111 languages

AfrikaansअंगिकाالعربيةAragonésArmãneashtiAsturianuAymar aruAzərbaycancaБашҡортсаБеларускаяБеларуская (тарашкевіца)БългарскиBosanskiCatalàCorsuCymraegDanskDeutschDiné bizaadEestiΕλληνικάEspañolEsperantoEstremeñuEuskaraفارسیFrançaisFryskGaeilgeGalegoગુજરાતી한국어Հայերենहिन्दीHrvatskiIdoIgboBahasa IndonesiaИронÍslenskaItalianoעבריתKabɩyɛಕನ್ನಡქართულიҚазақшаKiswahiliKreyòl ayisyenKurdîКыргызчаLatinaLatviešuLietuviųLimburgsLingálaMagyarМакедонскиMalagasyമലയാളംमराठीمصرىBahasa MelayuМонголမြန်မာဘာသာNederlandsनेपाल भाषा日本語NordfriiskNorsk bokmålNorsk nynorskOccitanOʻzbekcha / ўзбекчаਪੰਜਾਬੀپنجابیپښتوPlattdüütschPolskiPortuguêsRomânăRuna SimiРусскийScotsShqipSimple EnglishسنڌيSlovenčinaSlovenščinaSoomaaligaСрпски / srpskiSrpskohrvatski / српскохрватскиSundaSuomiSvenskaTagalogதமிழ்TaqbaylitతెలుగుТоҷикӣTürkçeУкраїнськаاردوTiếng ViệtVolapükWalonWest-VlamsWinaray吴语ייִדיש粵語Zazaki中文

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From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

This is the latest accepted revision, reviewed on 25 January 2024.

Textile fibre from the hair of sheep or other mammals

For other uses, see Wool (disambiguation).

Wool before processing

Unshorn Merino sheep

Shorn sheep

Wool is the textile fibre obtained from sheep and other mammals, especially goats, rabbits, and camelids.[1] The term may also refer to inorganic materials, such as mineral wool and glass wool, that have properties similar to animal wool.

As an animal fibre, wool consists of protein together with a small percentage of lipids. This makes it chemically quite distinct from cotton and other plant fibres, which are mainly cellulose.[1]

Characteristics[edit]

Champion hogget fleece, Walcha ShowWool is produced by follicles which are small cells located in the skin. These follicles are located in the upper layer of the skin called the epidermis and push down into the second skin layer called the dermis as the wool fibers grow. Follicles can be classed as either primary or secondary follicles. Primary follicles produce three types of fiber: kemp, medullated fibers, and true wool fibers. Secondary follicles only produce true wool fibers. Medullated fibers share nearly identical characteristics to hair and are long but lack crimp and elasticity. Kemp fibers are very coarse and shed out.[2] Fleece of fine New Zealand Merino wool and combed wool top on a wool table

Wool's crimp refers to the strong natural wave present in each wool fibre as it is presented on the animal. Wool's crimp, and to a lesser degree scales, make it easier to spin the fleece by helping the individual fibers attach to each other, so they stay together. Because of the crimp, wool fabrics have greater bulk than other textiles, and they hold air, which causes the fabric to retain heat. Wool has a high specific thermal resistance, so it impedes heat transfer in general. This effect has benefited desert peoples, as Bedouins and Tuaregs use wool clothes for insulation.

Felting of wool occurs upon hammering or other mechanical agitation as the microscopic barbs on the surface of wool fibers hook together. Felting generally comes under two main areas, dry felting or wet felting. Wet felting occurs when water and a lubricant (especially an alkali such as soap) are applied to the wool which is then agitated until the fibers mix and bond together. Temperature shock while damp or wet accentuates the felting process. Some natural felting can occur on the animal's back.

Wool has several qualities that distinguish it from hair or fur: it is crimped and elastic.[3]

The amount of crimp corresponds to the fineness of the wool fibers. A fine wool like Merino may have up to 40 crimps per centimetre (100 crimps per inch), while coarser wool like karakul may have less than one (one or two crimps per inch). In contrast, hair has little if any scale and no crimp, and little ability to bind into yarn. On sheep, the hair part of the fleece is called kemp. The relative amounts of kemp to wool vary from breed to breed and make some fleeces more desirable for spinning, felting, or carding into batts for quilts or other insulating products, including the famous tweed cloth of Scotland.

Wool fibers readily absorb moisture, but are not hollow. Wool can absorb almost one-third of its own weight in water.[4]

Wool absorbs sound like many other fabrics. It is generally a creamy white color, although some breeds of sheep produce natural colors, such as black, brown, silver, and random mixes.

Wool ignites at a higher temperature than cotton and some synthetic fibers. It has a lower rate of flame spread, a lower rate of heat release, a lower heat of combustion, and does not melt or drip;[5] it forms a char that is insulating and self-extinguishing, and it contributes less to toxic gases and smoke than other flooring products when used in carpets.[6] Wool carpets are specified for high safety environments, such as trains and aircraft. Wool is usually specified for garments for firefighters, soldiers, and others in occupations where they are exposed to the likelihood of fire.[6]

Wool causes an allergic reaction in some people.[7]

Processing[edit]

Shearing[edit]

Main article: Sheep shearing

Fine Merino shearing in Lismore, Victoria

Sheep shearing is the process in which a worker (a shearer) cuts off the woolen fleece of a sheep. After shearing, wool-classers separate the wool into four main categories:

fleece (which makes up the vast bulk)

broken

bellies

locks

The quality of fleeces is determined by a technique known as wool classing, whereby a qualified person, called a wool classer, groups wools of similar grading together to maximize the return for the farmer or sheep owner. In Australia, before being auctioned, all Merino fleece wool is objectively measured for average diameter (micron), yield (including the amount of vegetable matter), staple length, staple strength, and sometimes color and comfort factor.

Scouring[edit]

Wool before and after scouring

Wool straight off a sheep is known as "raw wool", "greasy wool"[8] or "wool in the grease". This wool contains a high level of valuable lanolin, as well as the sheep's dead skin and sweat residue, and generally also contains pesticides and vegetable matter from the animal's environment. Before the wool can be used for commercial purposes, it must be scoured, a process of cleaning the greasy wool. Scouring may be as simple as a bath in warm water or as complicated as an industrial process using detergent and alkali in specialized equipment.[9]

In north west England, special potash pits were constructed to produce potash used in the manufacture of a soft soap for scouring locally produced white wool.

Vegetable matter in commercial wool is often removed by chemical carbonization.[10]

In less-processed wools, vegetable matter may be removed by hand and some of the lanolin left intact through the use of gentler detergents. This semigrease wool can be worked into yarn and knitted into particularly water-resistant mittens or sweaters, such as those of the Aran Island fishermen. Lanolin removed from wool is widely used in cosmetic products such as hand creams.

Fineness and yield[edit]

Raw wool has many impurities; vegetable matter, sand, dirt and yolk which is a mixture of suint (sweat), grease, urine stains and dung locks. The sheep's body yields many types of wool with differing strengths, thicknesses, length of staple and impurities. The raw wool (greasy) is processed into 'top'. 'Worsted top' requires strong straight and parallel fibres.

Common Name

Part of Sheep

Style of Wool

Fine

Shoulder

Fine, uniform and very dense

Near

Sides

Fine, uniform and strong

Downrights

Neck

Short and irregular, lower quality

Choice

Back

Shorter staple, open and less strong

Abb

Haunches

Longer, stronger staple

Seconds

Belly

Short, tender, matted and dirty

Top-not

Head

Stiff, very coarse, rough and kempy

Brokes

Forelegs

Short, irregular and faulty

Cowtail

Hindlegs

Very strong, coarse and hairy

Britch

Tail

Very coarse, kempy and dirty

Source:[11]

Various types and natural colors of wool, and a picture made from wool

The quality of wool is determined by its fiber diameter, crimp, yield, color, and staple strength. Fiber diameter is the single most important wool characteristic determining quality and price.

Merino wool is typically 90–115 mm (3.5–4.5 in) in length and is very fine (between 12 and 24 microns).[12] The finest and most valuable wool comes from Merino hoggets. Wool taken from sheep produced for meat is typically coarser, and has fibers 40–150 mm (1.5–6 in) in length. Damage or breaks in the wool can occur if the sheep is stressed while it is growing its fleece, resulting in a thin spot where the fleece is likely to break.[13]

Wool is also separated into grades based on the measurement of the wool's diameter in microns and also its style. These grades may vary depending on the breed or purpose of the wool. For example:

Merinos

Diameter in microns

Name

< 15.5

Ultrafine Merino[8]

15.6–18.5

Superfine Merino

18.6–20

Fine Merino[8]

20.1–23

Medium Merino

> 23

Strong Merino[8]

Breeds

Diameter

Comeback

21–26 microns, white, 90–180 mm (3.5–7.1 in) long

Fine crossbred

27–31 microns, Corriedales, etc.

Medium crossbred

32–35 microns

Downs

23–34 microns, typically lacks luster and brightness. Examples, Aussiedown, Dorset Horn, Suffolk, etc.[14]

Coarse crossbred

>36 microns

Carpet wools

35–45 microns[8]

Any wool finer than 25 microns can be used for garments, while coarser grades are used for outerwear or rugs. The finer the wool, the softer it is, while coarser grades are more durable and less prone to pilling.

The finest Australian and New Zealand Merino wools are known as 1PP, which is the industry benchmark of excellence for Merino wool 16.9 microns and finer. This style represents the top level of fineness, character, color, and style as determined on the basis of a series of parameters in accordance with the original dictates of British wool as applied by the Australian Wool Exchange (AWEX) Council. Only a few dozen of the millions of bales auctioned every year can be classified and marked 1PP.[15]

In the United States, three classifications of wool are named in the Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939.[16] Wool is "the fiber from the fleece of the sheep or lamb or hair of the Angora or Cashmere goat (and may include the so-called specialty fibers from the hair of the camel, alpaca, llama, and vicuna) which has never been reclaimed from any woven or felted wool product".[16] "Virgin wool" and "new wool" are also used to refer to such never used wool. There are two categories of recycled wool (also called reclaimed or shoddy wool). "Reprocessed wool" identifies "wool which has been woven or felted into a wool product and subsequently reduced to a fibrous state without having been used by the ultimate consumer".[16] "Reused wool" refers to such wool that has been used by the ultimate consumer.[16]

History[edit]

Further information: History of clothing and textiles and The medieval English wool trade

A 1905 illustration of a Tibetan man spinning wool

Wild sheep were more hairy than woolly. Although sheep were domesticated some 9,000 to 11,000 years ago, archaeological evidence from statuary found at sites in Iran suggests selection for woolly sheep may have begun around 6000 BC,[17][18] with the earliest woven wool garments having only been dated to two to three thousand years later.[19] Woolly sheep were introduced into Europe from the Near East in the early part of the 4th millennium BC. The oldest known European wool textile, c. 1500 BC, was preserved in a Danish bog.[20] Prior to invention of shears—probably in the Iron Age—the wool was plucked out by hand or by bronze combs. In Roman times, wool, linen, and leather clothed the European population; cotton from India was a curiosity of which only naturalists had heard, and silks, imported along the Silk Road from China, were extravagant luxury goods. Pliny the Elder records in his Natural History that the reputation for producing the finest wool was enjoyed by Tarentum, where selective breeding had produced sheep with superior fleeces, but which required special care.

In medieval times, as trade connections expanded, the Champagne fairs revolved around the production of wool cloth in small centers such as Provins. The network developed by the annual fairs meant the woolens of Provins might find their way to Naples, Sicily, Cyprus, Majorca, Spain, and even Constantinople.[21] The wool trade developed into serious business, a generator of capital.[22] In the 13th century, the wool trade became the economic engine of the Low Countries and central Italy. By the end of the 14th century, Italy predominated.[21] The Florentine wool guild, Arte della Lana, sent the imported English wool to the San Martino convent for processing. Italian wool from Abruzzo and Spanish merino wools were processed at Garbo workshops. Abruzzo wool had once been the most accessible for the Florentine guild, until improved relations with merchants in Iberia made merino wool more available. By the 16th century Italian wool exports to the Levant had declined, eventually replaced by silk production.[21][23]

The value of exports of English raw wool were rivaled only by the 15th-century sheepwalks of Castile and were a significant source of income to the English crown, which in 1275 had imposed an export tax on wool called the "Great Custom". The importance of wool to the English economy can be seen in the fact that since the 14th century, the presiding officer of the House of Lords has sat on the "Woolsack", a chair stuffed with wool.

Economies of scale were instituted in the Cistercian houses, which had accumulated great tracts of land during the 12th and early 13th centuries, when land prices were low and labor still scarce. Raw wool was baled and shipped from North Sea ports to the textile cities of Flanders, notably Ypres and Ghent, where it was dyed and worked up as cloth. At the time of the Black Death, English textile industries consumed about 10% of English wool production. The English textile trade grew during the 15th century, to the point where export of wool was discouraged. Over the centuries, various British laws controlled the wool trade or required the use of wool even in burials. The smuggling of wool out of the country, known as owling, was at one time punishable by the cutting off of a hand. After the Restoration, fine English woolens began to compete with silks in the international market, partly aided by the Navigation Acts; in 1699, the English crown forbade its American colonies to trade wool with anyone but England herself.

A great deal of the value of woolen textiles was in the dyeing and finishing of the woven product. In each of the centers of the textile trade, the manufacturing process came to be subdivided into a collection of trades, overseen by an entrepreneur in a system called by the English the "putting-out" system, or "cottage industry", and the Verlagssystem by the Germans. In this system of producing wool cloth, once perpetuated in the production of Harris tweeds, the entrepreneur provides the raw materials and an advance, the remainder being paid upon delivery of the product. Written contracts bound the artisans to specified terms. Fernand Braudel traces the appearance of the system in the 13th-century economic boom, quoting a document of 1275.[21] The system effectively bypassed the guilds' restrictions.

Before the flowering of the Renaissance, the Medici and other great banking houses of Florence had built their wealth and banking system on their textile industry based on wool, overseen by the Arte della Lana, the wool guild: wool textile interests guided Florentine policies. Francesco Datini, the "merchant of Prato", established in 1383 an Arte della Lana for that small Tuscan city. The sheepwalks of Castile were controlled by the Mesta union of sheep owners.

They shaped the landscape and the fortunes of the meseta that lies in the heart of the Iberian peninsula; in the 16th century, a unified Spain allowed export of Merino lambs only with royal permission. The German wool market – based on sheep of Spanish origin – did not overtake British wool until comparatively late. Later, the Industrial Revolution introduced mass production technology into wool and wool cloth manufacturing. Australia's colonial economy was based on sheep raising, and the Australian wool trade eventually overtook that of the Germans by 1845, furnishing wool for Bradford, which developed as the heart of industrialized woolens production.

A World War I-era poster sponsored by the United States Department of Agriculture encouraging children to raise sheep to provide needed war supplies

Due to decreasing demand with increased use of synthetic fibers, wool production is much less than what it was in the past. The collapse in the price of wool began in late 1966 with a 40% drop; with occasional interruptions, the price has tended down. The result has been sharply reduced production and movement of resources into production of other commodities, in the case of sheep growers, to production of meat.[24][25][26]

Superwash wool (or washable wool) technology first appeared in the early 1970s to produce wool that has been specially treated so it is machine washable and may be tumble-dried. This wool is produced using an acid bath that removes the "scales" from the fiber, or by coating the fiber with a polymer that prevents the scales from attaching to each other and causing shrinkage. This process results in a fiber that holds longevity and durability over synthetic materials, while retaining its shape.[27]

In December 2004, a bale of the then world's finest wool, averaging 11.8 microns, sold for AU$3,000 per kilogram at auction in Melbourne. This fleece wool tested with an average yield of 74.5%, 68 mm (2.7 in) long, and had 40 newtons per kilotex strength. The result was A$279,000 for the bale.[28]

The finest bale of wool ever auctioned was sold for a seasonal record of AU$2690 per kilo during June 2008. This bale was produced by the Hillcreston Pinehill Partnership and measured 11.6 microns, 72.1% yield, and had a 43 newtons per kilotex strength measurement. The bale realized $247,480 and was exported to India.[29]

In 2007, a new wool suit was developed and sold in Japan that can be washed in the shower, and which dries off ready to wear within hours with no ironing required. The suit was developed using Australian Merino wool, and it enables woven products made from wool, such as suits, trousers, and skirts, to be cleaned using a domestic shower at home.[30]

In December 2006, the General Assembly of the United Nations proclaimed 2009 to be the International Year of Natural Fibres, so as to raise the profile of wool and other natural fibers.

Production[edit]

Global wool production is about 2 million tonnes (2.2 million short tons) per year, of which 60% goes into apparel. Wool comprises ca 3% of the global textile market, but its value is higher owing to dyeing and other modifications of the material.[1] Australia is a leading producer of wool which is mostly from Merino sheep but has been eclipsed by China in terms of total weight.[31] New Zealand (2016) is the third-largest producer of wool, and the largest producer of crossbred wool. Breeds such as Lincoln, Romney, Drysdale, and Elliotdale produce coarser fibers, and wool from these sheep is usually used for making carpets.

In the United States, Texas, New Mexico, and Colorado have large commercial sheep flocks and their mainstay is the Rambouillet (or French Merino). Also, a thriving home-flock contingent of small-scale farmers raise small hobby flocks of specialty sheep for the hand-spinning market. These small-scale farmers offer a wide selection of fleece.

Global woolclip (total amount of wool shorn) 2020[32]

China: 19% of global wool-clip (334 million kilograms [740 million pounds] greasy, 2020)

Australia: 16%

New Zealand: 8%

Turkey: 4%

United Kingdom: 4%

Morocco: 3%

Iran: 3%

Russia: 3%

South Africa: 3%

India: 3%

Organic wool has gained in popularity. This wool is limited in supply and much of it comes from New Zealand and Australia.[33] Organic wool has become easier to find in clothing and other products, but these products often carry a higher price.

Wool is environmentally preferable (as compared to petroleum-based nylon or polypropylene) as a material for carpets, as well, in particular when combined with a natural binding and the use of formaldehyde-free glues.

Animal rights groups have noted issues with the production of wool, such as mulesing.

Marketing[edit]

This section needs additional citations for verification. Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources in this section. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. (December 2017) (Learn how and when to remove this template message)

Australia[edit]

"Wool: Fibre of the gods, created – not man-made" CSIRO marketing poster describing the benefits of wool

Merino wool samples for sale by auction, Newcastle, New South Wales

About 85% of wool sold in Australia is sold by open cry auction.[34]

Wool received by Australian brokers and dealers (tonnes/quarter) since 1973

Wool buyers' room at a wool auction, Newcastle, New South Wales

Other countries[edit]

Wanha Villatehdas, a former wool factory in Hyvinkää, Finland

The British Wool Marketing Board operates a central marketing system for UK fleece wool with the aim of achieving the best possible net returns for farmers.

Less than half of New Zealand's wool is sold at auction, while around 45% of farmers sell wool directly to private buyers and end-users.[35]

United States sheep producers market wool with private or cooperative wool warehouses, but wool pools are common in many states. In some cases, wool is pooled in a local market area, but sold through a wool warehouse. Wool offered with objective measurement test results is preferred. Imported apparel wool and carpet wool goes directly to central markets, where it is handled by the large merchants and manufacturers.[36]

Yarn[edit]

Woollen yarn

Shoddy or recycled wool is made by cutting or tearing apart existing wool fabric and respinning the resulting fibers.[37] As this process makes the wool fibers shorter, the remanufactured fabric is inferior to the original. The recycled wool may be mixed with raw wool, wool noil, or another fiber such as cotton to increase the average fiber length. Such yarns are typically used as weft yarns with a cotton warp. This process was invented in the Heavy Woollen District of West Yorkshire and created a microeconomy in this area for many years.[38]

Worsted is a strong, long-staple, combed wool yarn with a hard surface.[37]

Woolen is a soft, short-staple, carded wool yarn typically used for knitting.[37] In traditional weaving, woolen weft yarn (for softness and warmth) is frequently combined with a worsted warp yarn for strength on the loom.[39]

Uses[edit]

In addition to clothing, wool has been used for blankets, horse rugs, saddle cloths, carpeting, insulation and upholstery. Dyed wool can be used to create other forms of art such as wet and needle felting. Wool felt covers piano hammers, and it is used to absorb odors and noise in heavy machinery and stereo speakers. Ancient Greeks lined their helmets with felt, and Roman legionnaires used breastplates made of wool felt.

Wool as well as cotton has also been traditionally used for cloth diapers.[40] Wool fiber exteriors are hydrophobic (repel water) and the interior of the wool fiber is hygroscopic (attracts water); this makes a wool garment suitable cover for a wet diaper by inhibiting wicking, so outer garments remain dry. Wool felted and treated with lanolin is water resistant, air permeable, and slightly antibacterial, so it resists the buildup of odor. Some modern cloth diapers use felted wool fabric for covers, and there are several modern commercial knitting patterns for wool diaper covers.

Initial studies of woolen underwear have found it prevented heat and sweat rashes because it more readily absorbs the moisture than other fibers.[41]

As an animal protein, wool can be used as a soil fertilizer, being a slow-release source of nitrogen.

Researchers at the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology school of fashion and textiles have discovered a blend of wool and Kevlar, the synthetic fiber widely used in body armor, was lighter, cheaper and worked better in damp conditions than Kevlar alone. Kevlar, when used alone, loses about 20% of its effectiveness when wet, so required an expensive waterproofing process. Wool increased friction in a vest with 28–30 layers of fabric, to provide the same level of bullet resistance as 36 layers of Kevlar alone.[42]

Events[edit]

Andean woman sorting wool as part of the theme park Los Aleros in Mérida, Venezuela

A buyer of Merino wool, Ermenegildo Zegna, has offered awards for Australian wool producers. In 1963, the first Ermenegildo Zegna Perpetual Trophy was presented in Tasmania for growers of "Superfine skirted Merino fleece". In 1980, a national award, the Ermenegildo Zegna Trophy for Extrafine Wool Production, was launched. In 2004, this award became known as the Ermenegildo Zegna Unprotected Wool Trophy. In 1998, an Ermenegildo Zegna Protected Wool Trophy was launched for fleece from sheep coated for around nine months of the year.

In 2002, the Ermenegildo Zegna Vellus Aureum Trophy was launched for wool that is 13.9 microns or finer. Wool from Australia, New Zealand, Argentina, and South Africa may enter, and a winner is named from each country.[43] In April 2008, New Zealand won the Ermenegildo Zegna Vellus Aureum Trophy for the first time with a fleece that measured 10.8 microns. This contest awards the winning fleece weight with the same weight in gold as a prize, hence the name.

In 2010, an ultrafine, 10-micron fleece, from Windradeen, near Pyramul, New South Wales, won the Ermenegildo Zegna Vellus Aureum International Trophy.[44]

Since 2000, Loro Piana has awarded a cup for the world's finest bale of wool that produces just enough fabric for 50 tailor-made suits. The prize is awarded to an Australian or New Zealand wool grower who produces the year's finest bale.[45]

The New England Merino Field days which display local studs, wool, and sheep are held during January, in even numbered years around the Walcha, New South Wales district. The Annual Wool Fashion Awards, which showcase the use of Merino wool by fashion designers, are hosted by the city of Armidale, New South Wales, in March each year. This event encourages young and established fashion designers to display their talents. During each May, Armidale hosts the annual New England Wool Expo to display wool fashions, handicrafts, demonstrations, shearing competitions, yard dog trials, and more.[1]

In July, the annual Australian Sheep and Wool Show is held in Bendigo, Victoria. This is the largest sheep and wool show in the world, with goats and alpacas, as well as woolcraft competitions and displays, fleece competitions, sheepdog trials, shearing, and wool handling. The largest competition in the world for objectively measured fleeces is the Australian Fleece Competition, which is held annually at Bendigo. In 2008, 475 entries came from all states of Australia, with first and second prizes going to the Northern Tablelands fleeces.[46]

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What is Wool Fabric: Properties, How its Made and Where | Sewport

is Wool Fabric: Properties, How its Made and Where | SewportLog inSign UpPRICINGLEARNBLOGDIRECTORYFABRICSBROWSE SERVICE PROVIDERSABOUT USHOW IT WORKSFOR BRANDSFOR MANUFACTURERSLOGINSIGN UPPRICINGBLOGDIRECTORYFABRICSHOW IT WORKSBROWSE SERVICE PROVIDERSABOUT USHOW TO USE SEWPORTSUPPORTLog inSign UpWhat is Wool Fabric: Properties, How its Made and Whereby Sewport Support Team

• March 12, 2024 • 10 min readShareTable of contents What Is Wool Fabric?How Is Wool Fabric Made?How Is Wool Fabric Used?Where Is Wool Fabric Produced?How Much Does Wool Fabric Cost?What Different Types of Wool Fabric Are There?1. Merino Wool2. Cashmere Wool3. Mohair Wool4. Alpaca Wool5. Camel Wool6. Virgin Wool7. Angora Wool8. Vicuna Wool9. Llama Wool10. Qiviut WoolHow Does Wool Fabric Impact the Environment?Wool Fabric Certifications Available

Fabric name

Wool

Fabric also known as

Cashmere, fleece, fur, hair, tweed

Fabric composition

Hair fibers from various animals

Fabric possible thread count variations

Up to 200 with more fragility at higher thread counts

Fabric breathability

Moderately breathable

Moisture-wicking abilities

High

Moisture-wicking abilities

High

Heat retention abilities

High

Stretch ability (give)

Medium

Prone to pilling/bubbling

High

Country where fabric was first produced

Ancient Iran

Biggest exporting/producing country today

Australia

Recommended washing temperatures

Cool or warm

Commonly used in

Sweaters, socks, suits, pants, underwear, hats, gloves, other forms of cold-weather gear, carpets, firefighting gear, insulation

Armani Marine Blue Textural Wool WovenWhat Is Wool Fabric?

Wool is a type of fabric derived from the hairs of various animals. While most people associate the word “wool” with sheep, there are, in fact, a variety of distinct types of wool that producers derive from animals other than sheep.

To make wool, producers harvest the hairs of animals and spin them into yarn. They then weave this yarn into garments or other forms of textiles. Wool is known for its durability and thermally insulating properties; depending on the type of hair that producers use to make wool, this fabric may benefit from the natural insulative effects that keep the animal that produced the hair warm throughout the winter.

Throughout the centuries, wool and cotton have vied for supremacy as the most-used textile in the world. Today, each of these fabrics fills a particular niche, and wool remains prized for its unique attributes. While cotton consists almost entirely of plant cellulose, wool consists of approximately 97 percent protein and 3 percent fat, which makes it uniquely suited for certain applications that cotton isn’t suited for.

When it is woven into textiles, wool has a natural waviness called “crimp.” This crimp contributes to wool’s insulative properties, which exist because the bulkiness of wool naturally traps air. Some types of wool have more crimp than others, and the more crimp there is in a woolen garment, the more insulative it is.

Compared to cotton and other plant-based or synthetic textile materials, wool is highly flame-resistant. It doesn’t spread flame, and instead, it chars and self-extinguishes. Therefore, this type of textile is highly useful in applications in which the reduction of flammability is desired.

Felting Wool SweatersPrior to domestication, sheep were more hairy than wooly. Their hair, therefore, was not highly useful as a textile material. Once sheep were domesticated around 11,000 years ago, sheep breeders started selecting certain traits in their flocks, and sheep gradually became woolier.

The earliest evidence of garments made from sheep wool is from around 4000 BC, but it’s possible that human beings started making woolen garments as long as 8,000 years ago. While there’s evidence that wooly sheep were introduced into Europe around 4,000 BC, the first piece of hard evidence of wooly sheep domestication in Europe is a wool textile from around 1500 BC that was preserved in a

Danish bog.

Along with linen and leather, wool was an important textile in the Roman empire, and this textile became even more central to European life during the Middle Ages. By around 1200 AD, in fact, wool production had become a major component of the Italian economy.

Modest Vintage Stylish Plaid Wool DressFamous Italian families, such as the Medici, built their entire fortunes from wool production. By the dawning of the Renaissance, wool production had spread through the rest of Europe, but it wasn’t until the Colonial Era that Europeans exported wooly sheep to other continents.

As soon as the British Empire introduced sheep to the Australian continent, the trajectory of the global wool industry changed drastically. With such an immense expanse of ideal grazing land at its disposal, the Australian sheep population exploded within a few decades. Australia remains the wool capital of the world, and New Zealand is another significant wool-producing country.

With the advent of synthetic fibers, the global demand for wool sharply decreased. Even so, wool innovations have continued unabated. Superwool is a kind of wool that you can wash in a washing machine and tumble dry, and a Japanese company even invented a

type of wool suit in 2007 that you can wash in the shower and dry within a matter of hours.

Buy high-quality, low-priced wool fabric here. If you are UK based, you can buy it here.How Is Wool Fabric Made?

The

production of wool begins with the shearing of wool-bearing animals. Some animals bear wool once per year, and others bear wool multiple times throughout the year.

Next, the shorn wool is cleaned and sorted into bales. There are a variety of ways to remove the greasy lanolin in raw wool, but most large wool producers use chemical catalysts for this process.

Once the wool fibers are clean and sorted, they are carded, which is the process of making the fibers into long strands. These carded strands are then spun into yarn, and after a final washing, this yarn can be woven into garments and other types of woolen textiles.

Vintage Colors Hand Dyed WoolLastly, the finished textiles may be exposed to a variety of post-production processes to develop certain attributes. Fulling, for instance, is the immersion of a wool textile in water to make the fibers interlock, and crabbing is the process of permanently setting this interlock. Lastly, wool producers may decate their products for shrink-proofing purposes, and rarely, they may also dye their finished wool products.

Shop a wide variety of wool fabrics here for US and rest of world here and here if you are UK based.How Is Wool Fabric Used?

Over the years, human beings have found hundreds of ways to use wool. While wool is primarily used in consumer applications, this substance is also popular in industrial applications for its durability and flame-retardant qualities.

While finer types of wool might be used to make garments that directly contact the skin, it’s much more common to find wool used for outerwear or other types of garments that don’t make direct bodily contact. For instance, most of the world’s formal suits consist of wool fibers, and this textile is also commonly used to make sweaters, hats, gloves, and other types of accessories and apparel.

Where Is Wool Fabric Produced?

According to World Atlas,

Australia produces 25 percent of the world’s wool, which makes it the most prominent wool-producing country. China, which has one of the world’s largest textile markets and textile industries, produces 18 percent of the world’s wool. At 17 percent, the United States is the third-largest wool producer, and New Zealand comes in fourth since it produces 11 percent of the world’s wool supply.

How Much Does Wool Fabric Cost?

Australian Wool Innovation Limited provides weekly price reports for wool per kilogram. You can use this organization’s

price reports to gauge the current prices of Australian wool. At present, clean Australian wool is going for about $19.60 per kilogram.

Wool is, therefore, significantly more expensive than cotton, which is its main competitor on the world stage. It is quite a bit more expensive than most synthetic alternatives, but it also offers unique benefits that synthetic fabrics do not.

What Different Types of Wool Fabric Are There?

There are quite a few different types of wool, and not every variety is derived from sheep:

1. Merino Wool

Merino wool is one of the world’s most common types of wool. The vast majority of merino sheep are bred in Australia, and wool from merino sheep is used to make all sorts of different kinds of garments and industrial materials.

This type of wool can have a diameter of under 20 microns, which makes it one of the finest types of woolen products in existence. While merino sheep were originally bred in Spain, hardly any merino wool production still occurs in this European country. Since merino wool is relatively greasy before it is processed, it’s necessary to remove lanolin from this type of textile before it can be spun into yarn.

Upcycled Wool Blanket & Vintage Fabric Oven Mitts2. Cashmere Wool

Cashmere is one of the most expensive and luxurious types of wool. The name “cashmere” comes from the Kashmir region of India, which is the area where the furry goats that supply cashmere wool originated.

With hair diameters as small as 18 microns, cashmere is just as soft and fine as merino wool. The high price of cashmere wool, however, comes from the fact that cashmere goats can only produce around 150 grams of wool per year, which makes this type of wool a highly desired commodity.

3. Mohair Wool

Mohair wool comes from angora goats, which have incredibly thick, wavy wool. While it’s possible to gather mohair wool without hurting angora goats, the mohair industry has been mired in controversy for generations over the widespread mistreatment of these wool-bearing animals.

While other types of wool may not be highly crimped, the wavy hair of angora goats naturally leads to high-crimp woolen textiles. During the 1970s and 1980s, mohair was very much in vogue, and trendy urbanites wore mohair sweaters and put mohair carpeting in their homes until the rampant animal abuses in the mohair industry came to light.

4. Alpaca Wool

People in South America have been breeding alpacas for their wool for thousands of years. Younger alpacas can yield hairs as small as 15 microns, but alpaca wool roughens as it ages, which makes the hair fibers of older alpacas unusable for apparel purposes.

There are a few different breeds of alpacas that breeders use for wool, and Suri alpaca wool is among the most prized varieties of this natural textile. While some manufacturers use pure alpaca wool to make garments, most producers mix this type of wool with less expensive wool varieties to take advantage of the draping qualities of alpaca fibers without incurring unreasonable costs.

Vintage inspired wool dress5. Camel Wool

During the early 20th century, camel hair suits were all the rage. Camel wool is incredibly insulative, but it is also less durable than other types of wool. Since camel hair is relatively rough, it isn’t well-suited for any garments that directly touch the skin.

6. Virgin Wool

Also known as lamb’s wool, virgin wool is wool made from a lamb’s first shearing. This term can also refer to wool that hasn’t been recycled.

7. Angora Wool

Angora wool comes from a special breed of rabbit that produces incredibly fine and soft hair. This type of wool is very expensive, and the rabbits that produce it are not commonly kept in humane conditions.

8. Vicuna Wool

The vicuna is a relative of the alpaca that is exclusively native to Peru. Vicuna wool is the most expensive type of wool in existence, which is partially due to the Peruvian government’s attempts to protect this endangered species.

9. Llama Wool

Llama wool is generally too rough to be worn next to the skin, but it is suitable for outerwear garments. It’s relatively rare to find a breeder that produces llama wool.

10. Qiviut Wool

The qiviut is a type of musk ox native to Alaska. While the fibers produced by this animal are very rough, they are eight times more insulative than sheep wool, which makes qiviut wool ideal for gloves, hats, and other types of cold weather gear.

How Does Wool Fabric Impact the Environment?

Since wool is a natural textile, it is inherently non-impactful on the environment. As long as wool-producing animals are allowed to live free, happy lives and they aren’t crowded or subjected to inhumane practices, it’s possible to produce wool sustainably.

Just because wool production can be sustainable, however, doesn’t mean that it always is. In fact, the vast majority of wool production is either inhumane, environmentally degrading, or both. In search of maximum profits, wool producers everywhere disregard the effects that their industry has on the environment and the animals they depend on, and an inherently sustainable practice that human beings have pursued for thousands of years becomes harmful to both wool animals and their natural surroundings.

For instance, the animal rights advocacy organization PETA has

dire things to say about the wool industry. Since PETA is a relatively radical organization, you should take everything it says with a grain of salt. For instance, it’s unclear whether “enteric fermentation,” (sheep farts) is actually bad for the environment.

It’s undeniably true, however, that sheep breeding can cause soil degradation and other types of land damage. Fecal matter from sheep can also pollute waterways, and the toxic chemical “sheep dip,” which is used to kill parasites, often overflows into the surrounding environment.

Plus, sheep breeders routinely kill animals like coyotes and kangaroos that they deem to be detrimental to their sheep breeding plans. Wool production can also be harmful to wool animals themselves; the mohair wool industry, for instance, has been locked in a constant state of controversy ever since groups like

PETA exposed the horrific conditions that angora goats are subjected to in the production of this textile.

Wool Fabric Certifications Available

A variety of organizations certify wool based on certain criteria. Common certification criteria include the quality of the wool and the sustainability of the breeding and production processes that went into preparing it for consumer use.

The

Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) is one of the world’s most prominent wool certification groups, and it certifies wool from various animals.

Woolmark, which is a major wool producer, offers third-party testing for other wool companies, and the

International Wool Textile Organization (IWTO) also offers reputable wool certification services.

ShareAbout the author:Sewport Support Team is the founder and CEO of Sewport - an online marketplace connecting brands and manufacturers, former founder of various clothing manufacturing services. He is passionate about e-commerce, marketing and production digitisation. Connect with Boris on LinkedIn.Start your projectRecent POSTsWhat is Ikat Fabric: Properties, How its Made and WhereWhat is Leather Fabric: Properties, How its Made and WhereWhat is Merino Wool Fabric: Properties, How its Made and WhereRead more articles You may also likeNovember 13, 2019What is Ikat Fabric: Properties, How its Made and WhereOctober 30, 2020What is Leather Fabric: Properties, How its Made and WhereOctober 30, 2020What is Merino Wool Fabric: Properties, How its Made and WhereOctober 30, 2020What is Angora Wool Fabric: Properties, How its Made and WhereOctober 30, 2020What is Jacquard Fabric: Properties, How its Made and WhereOctober 30, 2020What is Lame Fabric: Properties, How its Made and WhereOctober 30, 2020What is Microfibre Fabric: Properties, How its Made and WhereOctober 30, 2020What is Organdy Fabric: Properties, How its Made and WhereOctober 30, 2020What is Velour Fabric: Properties, How its Made and WhereOctober 30, 2020What is Soy Fabric: Properties, How its Made and WhereMarch 18, 2019What is Taffeta Fabric: Properties, How its Made and WhereOctober 09, 2020What is Baize Fabric: Properties, How its Made and WhereOctober 09, 2020What is Batiste Fabric: Properties, How its Made and WhereOctober 09, 2020What is Brocade Fabric: Properties, How its Made and WhereOctober 09, 2020What is Canvas Fabric: Properties, How its Made and WhereOctober 09, 2020What is Charmeuse Fabric: Properties, How its Made and WhereOctober 09, 2020What is Felt Fabric: Properties, How its Made and WhereOctober 09, 2020What is Corduroy Fabric: Properties, How its Made and WhereOctober 09, 2020What is Jersey Fabric: Properties, How its Made and WhereOctober 09, 2020What is Lace Fabric: Properties, How its Made and WhereOctober 09, 2020What is Lawn Fabric: Properties, How its Made and WhereOctober 09, 2020What is Shantung Fabric: Properties, How its Made and WhereConcentrate on what’s important. Leave the rest to us.MENUHomeManufacturersSupportLearnCOMPANYAbout usContactFAQPressAvailable onBLOGTOP POSTSA Simple Guide to Working With Clothing Manufacturers (Bonus Tips)Cost of Starting a Clothing Line (2019 Industry Research)Sizing guide tool for high-street shopsFashion Designer - Is a Fashion Degree Worth It? (2019 Cost Analysis)Which Countries Have the Best Clothing Manufacturers(Industry Research)Garment Labelling Requirements for Clothing (Full Guide)7 Best Ways You Can Promote Your New Clothing Brand OnlineHow Clothes Are Made In 9 Steps (A Look Into A Big Clothing Factory)How To Do a Successful Fashion Photoshoot (Best Tips 2019)Best Tips on Starting A Clothing Line (From 40+ Expert Fashion Designers)Top Fashion Trade Shows to Attend & How To Prepare for an ExhibitHow to Become a Fashion Designer in 2019 (new complete guide)Fashion Apprenticeships - How They Can Boost Growth In Your BusinessFashion Tech Pack - Avoid Manufacturing Errors (Ultimate Guide Book)More posts here >DIRECTORYBY COUNTRY AND CITYUK Top Clothing ManufacturersLondon Top Clothing ManufacturersUSA Top Clothing ManufacturersLos Angeles Top Clothing ManufacturersNew York Top Clothing ManufacturersCanada Top Clothing ManufacturersToronto Top Clothing ManufacturersAustralia Top Clothing ManufacturersCanberra Top Clothing ManufacturersSydney Top Clothing ManufacturersChina Top Clothing ManufacturersShanghai Top Clothing ManufacturersAsia Top Clothing ManufacturersEurope Top Clothing ManufacturersPakistan Top Clothing ManufacturersBangladesh Top Clothing ManufacturersBulgaria Top Clothing ManufacturersIndia Top Clothing ManufacturersItaly Top Clothing ManufacturersPoland Top Clothing ManufacturersPortugal Top Clothing ManufacturersTurkey Top Clothing ManufacturersSpain Top Clothing ManufacturersVietnam Top Clothing ManufacturersRomania Top Clothing ManufacturersBY GARMENT TYPEChildren’s Clothing ManufacturersDress ManufacturersJeans ManufacturersMaternity Activewear ManufacturersShirt ManufacturersSports Clothing ManufacturersSwimwear ManufacturersT-Shirt ManufacturersUnderwear ManufacturersTerms & ConditionsPrivacy PolicyAgreement for manufacturersSitemap© 2020 Beila Ltd. All rights registeredJust before you goWe can help you take the next stepLearn moreDid you know we helped over 7000 brands find garment manufacturers and specialists and we can help you too... how?Brands using Sewport usually save around 60% on start-up costs.Learn m

WOOL | English meaning - Cambridge Dictionary

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English

Meaning of wool in English

woolnoun [ U ] uk

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/wʊl/ us

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/wʊl/

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A2 the soft, thick hair that grows on the bodies of sheep and some other animals: Australia is one of the world's main producers of wool.

Anna Usova/iStock/Getty Images Plus/GettyImages

thick thread or material that is made from this: Put on your red wool cardigan - it'll be nice and warm.UK How many balls of wool did you need to knit that sweater?

Kristin Duvall/Photographer's Choice/GettyImages

More examplesFewer examplesI can't wear wool - it makes me itch.Australia is one of the world's main producers of wool.If you've got any wool to spare when you've finished the pullover, can you make me some gloves?This type of wool is woven into fabric that will make jackets.The ship was carrying a cargo of wool from England to France.

SMART Vocabulary: related words and phrases

The skin, hair & bone of non-human animals

ala

baleen

bristly

bushy

coated

dander

downy

feather

fleece

goatskin

hackles

horsehair

mane

mother-of-pearl

prickle

sable

sealskin

seashell

spine

wishbone

See more results »

You can also find related words, phrases, and synonyms in the topics:

Textiles made from natural fibres

Idiom

pull the wool over someone's eyes

(Definition of wool from the Cambridge Advanced Learner's Dictionary & Thesaurus © Cambridge University Press)

wool | American Dictionary

woolnoun [ U ] us

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/wʊl/

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the soft, curly hair from sheep, or thread or cloth made from this: I bought some fine wool to knit a baby sweater.

woolen adjective [ not gradable ] us

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/ˈwʊl·ən/ (also wool, us/wʊl/)

She lay under a red woolen blanket.

(Definition of wool from the Cambridge Academic Content Dictionary © Cambridge University Press)

Examples of wool

wool

Wools of inferior quality and intermediate sorts are valued in proportion.

From the Hansard archive

Example from the Hansard archive. Contains Parliamentary information licensed under the Open Parliament Licence v3.0

The above prices are for wools in good condition.

From the Hansard archive

Example from the Hansard archive. Contains Parliamentary information licensed under the Open Parliament Licence v3.0

One of the causes of this variation is the fluctuating price in wools and pelts.

From the Hansard archive

Example from the Hansard archive. Contains Parliamentary information licensed under the Open Parliament Licence v3.0

The same is true in regard to yarns, cottons, and wools.

From the Hansard archive

Example from the Hansard archive. Contains Parliamentary information licensed under the Open Parliament Licence v3.0

About the same time we told their representatives here that we were likely to have considerable supplies of the finer wools for disposal.

From the Hansard archive

Example from the Hansard archive. Contains Parliamentary information licensed under the Open Parliament Licence v3.0

In the meantime, we use wools which we are not properly equipped to deal with.

From the Hansard archive

Example from the Hansard archive. Contains Parliamentary information licensed under the Open Parliament Licence v3.0

Certain commodities, for example, tobacco, wine and knitting wools, are liable to change in weight after they have been prepacked but before they are sold.

From the Hansard archive

Example from the Hansard archive. Contains Parliamentary information licensed under the Open Parliament Licence v3.0

The writing was on the wall in those days, that changes were pending in wools available to us.

From the Hansard archive

Example from the Hansard archive. Contains Parliamentary information licensed under the Open Parliament Licence v3.0

I have some experience in selling knitting wools—admittedly not in this country, but overseas.

From the Hansard archive

Example from the Hansard archive. Contains Parliamentary information licensed under the Open Parliament Licence v3.0

A man is told to pick out all the green wools in one case and all the blue wools in another.

From the Hansard archive

Example from the Hansard archive. Contains Parliamentary information licensed under the Open Parliament Licence v3.0

The proportion of spinning capacity allocated to baby wools has recently been increased.

From the Hansard archive

Example from the Hansard archive. Contains Parliamentary information licensed under the Open Parliament Licence v3.0

Arrangements are, however, being made to issue all knitting wools free of coupon to certain organisations to be approved for the purpose.

From the Hansard archive

Example from the Hansard archive. Contains Parliamentary information licensed under the Open Parliament Licence v3.0

They are merchants, dealers in raw wools and yarns, and theirs is a first-class organisation.

From the Hansard archive

Example from the Hansard archive. Contains Parliamentary information licensed under the Open Parliament Licence v3.0

There were factories which gave employment to workers in the countryside in which the skins and wools were treated.

From the Hansard archive

Example from the Hansard archive. Contains Parliamentary information licensed under the Open Parliament Licence v3.0

There is the fact also that our yarns and wools are characteristic of this country.

From the Hansard archive

Example from the Hansard archive. Contains Parliamentary information licensed under the Open Parliament Licence v3.0

See all examples of wool

These examples are from corpora and from sources on the web. Any opinions in the examples do not represent the opinion of the Cambridge Dictionary editors or of Cambridge University Press or its licensors.

Collocations with wool

wool

These are words often used in combination with wool.Click on a collocation to see more examples of it.

bale of woolIt is that the nation has lost 100 bales of wool, and that is all.

From the Hansard archive

Example from the Hansard archive. Contains Parliamentary information licensed under the Open Parliament Licence v3.0

fine woolThose that do produce fine wool include products of selective breeding.

From the Cambridge English Corpus

wool productionThe combined effect was increasing specialization and division of labour, in particular, a gradual separation of weaving from wool production and wool trade.

From the Cambridge English Corpus

See all collocations with wool

What is the pronunciation of wool?

Translations of wool

in Chinese (Traditional)

羊毛, 動物毛, 毛線…

in Chinese (Simplified)

羊毛, 动物毛, 毛线…

in Spanish

lana, lana [feminine, singular]…

in Portuguese

lã, lã [feminine]…

in more languages

in Marathi

in Japanese

in Turkish

in French

in Catalan

in Dutch

in Tamil

in Hindi

in Gujarati

in Danish

in Swedish

in Malay

in German

in Norwegian

in Urdu

in Ukrainian

in Russian

in Telugu

in Arabic

in Bengali

in Czech

in Indonesian

in Thai

in Vietnamese

in Polish

in Korean

in Italian

लोकर…

ウール, 羊毛, 羊毛（ようもう）…

yün, yünlü…

laine [feminine], (de/en) laine…

llana…

wol…

செம்மறி ஆடுகள் மற்றும் வேறு சில விலங்குகளின் உடல்களில் வளரும் மென்மையான, அடர்த்தியான முடி, தடிமனான நூல் அல்லது இதிலிருந்து தயாரிக்கப்படும் பொருள்…

ऊन, ऊन के मोटे धागे…

ઊન, ઊનનો દોરો, દોરાનો દડો…

uld, uld-, -garn…

ull, ylle…

bulu…

die Wolle, Woll……

ull [masculine], garn [neuter], ull…

اون (بھیڑ اور بعض دوسرے جانوروں کے جسم پر اگنے والے نرم بالوں سے بنایا جانے والا دھاگا), اون…

шерсть, вовна…

шерсть, руно, шерстяная пряжа…

ఉన్ని, బొచ్చు, ఉన్నితో చేసిన మందమైన దారం లేక పదార్థం…

صوف…

উল / পশম, উলের মোটা সুতো…

vlna, vlněný…

wol…

ขนแกะ…

len…

wełna, runo…

털실, 양털…

lana, di lana…

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steel wool

wire wool

cotton wool

cotton wool ball

dyed-in-the-wool

wire wool, at steel wool

cotton wool, at cotton

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Idioms and phrases

wrap someone (up) in cotton wool idiom

pull the wool over someone's eyes idiom

pull the wool over someone’s eyes idiom

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an answer or reaction

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Wool Fibre - Definition, Properties, Extraction from Animals with Videos

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ChemistrySynthetic Fibres and PlasticsWool Fibre

Wool Fibre

What is Wool?

Wool is a textile fibr obtained from sheep and some other animals, including cashmere and mohair from goats, qiviut from muskoxen, angora from rabbits, and other types of wool from camelids.

Wool fibre is a highly organised structure whose main histological components include the cuticle, cortex and medulla. Wool fibre is a natural fibre and its characteristics such as diameter, crimps and length are essential parameters of the wool trait, as well as important indicators of the spinning efficiency of the wool.

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HomeFiberWool fiber – Basics, Characteristics, & Properties

Wool fiber – Basics, Characteristics, & Properties

Properties of Wool Fibers

FiberNatural Fiber

By Textile School

Last updated Jan 27, 2022

1 64,547

Wool is possibly the oldest fiber known to humans. It was one of the first fibers to be spun into yarn and woven into the fabric.

Of the major apparel fibres, wool is the most reusable and recyclable fibre on the planet. The eco-credentials of wool are enhanced by its long service life and suitability to be recycled to new textiles for clothing, resilient upholstery or products that call on its natural resistance to fire and temperature extremes. Aside from premium next-to-skin apparel, wool can be used in industrial applications such as thermal and acoustic insulation or in pads to soak up oil spills.

At the disposal stage, natural fibres such as wool reduce the impact of the textile industry on pollution and landfill build-up. In warm, moist conditions such as in soil, wool biodegrades rapidly through the action of fungi and bacteria to essential elements (i.e. Nitrogen and Sulphur) for the growth of organisms as part of natural carbon and nutrient cycles.

Growth

Wool is possibly the oldest fibre known to humans. It was one of the first fibres to be spun into yarn and woven into a fabric. Wool mostly comes from sheep but also from alpacas, camels, and goats. Australia, Eastern Europe, New Zealand, and China are major wool producers. The American woollen industry began in the Massachusetts settlements in 1630, where each household was required by law to produce wool cloth.

How is wool made?

First, our sheep needs to grow it!

Harvesting

Image by Mabel Amber, still incognito… from Pixabay

Then, they need a haircut. The process is called sheering. A sheering specialist can sheer 200 sheep in a day. A ewe, or female sheep, can produce up to 15 pounds of wool. A ram, or male sheep, can 20 pounds of wool. The sheared wool is called raw wool and since sheep don’t take showers, it must first be cleaned.

Next, the wool is carded – that means brushing the wool to straighten the fibres. Once done by hand, these days a carding machine passes the wool through a series of rollers covered with wire bristles. The carded fibres are gently scraped into strands called roving. The roving is spun into yarn that is then woven into cloth. In the past, the task of spinning usually was the job of unmarried females – they became spinsters.

Fleece is a ball of wool taken from a single animal in a shearing. But not all wool is equal – even when it comes from the same animal. The highest quality wool comes from the sides, shoulders, and back. The lowest quality comes from the lower legs.

Grading of Wool Fibers

Wool is graded for fineness and length. The length varies from place to place on the animal, but it mostly varies amongst sheep breeds. Australian Merino wool is 3-5 inches long. Breeds found in Texas and California produce fibres 2.5 inches long. Wool from other breeds and other animals may be as long as 15 inches.

Properties of Wool Fibers

This microscopic view shows us why wool is special. The surface is a series of overlapping scales of protein, pointing toward the tip. On the animal, this enables the foreign matter to work its way out of the fleece. In a strand of yarn, it enables the fibres to lock with one another. This is the key to wool’s strength.

Wool’s surface repels water. Since moisture does not remain on the surface, woollen fabrics tend to feel dry and comfortable even in damp weather. The inner core does absorb moisture – so much so that wool can absorb almost double its own weight in water and still feel reasonably dry. This absorbency also gives wool its natural resistance to wrinkles. The absorbed moisture also holds down static electricity. And because of the inner moisture, wool is naturally flame resistant.

Moisture in wool

The amount of water absorbed by wool is usually referred to as ‘regain’. Regain is the ratio of the mass of water to dry wool expressed as a percentage.

Another term also used by the textile industry, predominately for cotton, is ‘moisture content’. Moisture content is the ratio of the mass of water to the mass of water plus wool expressed as a percentage.

Wool, along with cotton and to lesser extent nylon, is a fibre that absorbs moisture from the surrounding air to reach an equilibrium, which depends on the relative humidity of the environment. At ambient humidity, wool will contain 10 to 15% by weight of water and up to 35% water at high relative humidity, which is more than most other fibres. This water is incorporated in the internal structure of the fibre and, therefore, is hardly noticed by the wearer. Wool garments do not feel damp or clammy. This property enables wool to act as a buffer against sudden environmental changes, for example, excessive perspiration during exercise or changes in climatic conditions such as going outside from an air-conditioned room.

Although the wool fibre can readily absorb water vapour from the air, a garment made from wool will be water repellent to some extent. This is because the surface of the fibre has a very thin, waxy, lipid coating chemically bonded to the surface that cannot be easily removed. Scouring, washing or processing will not remove this layer. The only way to

remove this layer, if required, is by chemical treatment.

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Shrinkage and felting

Image by joduma from Pixabay

There are two major sources of shrinkage in wool-containing fabrics, which may be encountered during laundering: relaxation and felting shrinkage.

Relaxation shrinkage is an irreversible change in fabric dimensions (expansion or shrinkage) that occurs only once when a fabric is first immersed in water (without agitation) and then allowed to dry. Relaxation shrinkage is caused by the release of temporarily set strains imposed on the fabric in dry finishing and can be minimised by suitable finishing routes.

Felting shrinkage is a form of shrinkage unique to wool and wool-rich fabrics and is caused by the scales on the surface of wool fibres that have a ratchet-like action allowing preferential movement of the fibre in the direction of the fibre root. This results in the entanglement of the fibres as they move under mechanical action in water (as occurs in

machine washing).

Physical properties

Crimps: Wool fibre is more or less wavy and has twisted. This waviness is termed as ‘crimp’. The finer the wool the more will be the crimps in it. Merino wool has 30 crimps per inch while coarse wool has one or two.

Effect of friction: Friction will soften the wool fibre especially when wet and thus is advantageous in maintaining the smooth, soft texture of fabrics.

Effect of heat: Low heat has no effect but strong heat weakens the fibre and destroys the colour of the fibre.

Effect of moisture: Wool is the most hygroscopic in nature. It can absorb up to 50% of its weight and carry up to 20% of weight, without giving the feeling of being wet. Upon drying it losses moisture slowly preventing rapid evaporation thus avoiding a chilling feel to the user. It absorbs perspiration after violent exercise and guards the body against the sudden change in temperature.

Felting: Wool fibres interlock and contract when exposed to heat, moisture, and pressure. The scale-like exterior of the fibres contributes to felting. The fibres get softened in weak alkaline solutions due to the expansion of scales at their free edges, with friction and pressure they again interlock to form a felt. This property is used in making felts for hats, shoes, floor-coverings and soundproofing purposes.

Heat conductivity: Wool fibre is a part that is a poor conductor of heat and therefore the fabrics made from the fibre are considered most suitable for winter wear.

Resiliency: Wool is highly resilient and comes to its original shape when hanged after wrinkled or created.

Strength: It is stronger than silk. When wet wool loses about 25% of its strength. The longer the fibre the greater will be the strength of the yarn.

Stretchability: Wool is highly elastic. It is about 10 to 30% stretched when dry and 40 to 50% when wet upon receiving pressure upon drying it readily regains its original dimensions.

Shrink-ability: Wool is resistant to shrinkage. However long exposure to moisture may cause shrinkage.

Chemical properties

Wool is resistant to acid, whereas cotton and cellulose are severely damaged if exposed to acid. This difference is utilised in carbonising wool to remove excessive cellulosic impurities, such as burr and vegetable matter. Wool is treated with a solution of sulfuric acid and is then baked to destroy the impurities with only minimal damage to the wool.

The differences in the chemical structure of the various fibres mean that different classes of dyestuffs are required to cover the range of fibre types. Polypropylene and polyethene do not absorb the dyes used to colour wool so any wool pack contamination from these fibres in the final product will appear obvious. The move to nylon woolpacks does not

necessarily prevent contamination; however, as the chemical structure of nylon is similar to wool, it absorbs wool dyes and this makes any contamination less obvious.

The action of acids: Dilute acids have little effect but either hot or concentrated acids weaken or dissolve the wool fibres.

The action of alkalis: Alkalis tend to make wool yellowish, strong solutions of sodium carbonate when heated destroys the fibre sodium hydroxide is highly injurious to the wool fibre. However borax and ammonia have no harmful influence on wool.

Application of Wool Fibers

Wool today is prized for its beauty and durability. It is still the prime choice for high-quality business suits, warm sweaters, and premium carpets.

The majority of wool (72.8%) is used in apparel, home furnishing account for 15-45%, industrial uses 6 to 7% and exports 5%, wool accounts for 3.3% of all fibres for apparel.

The most important use of wool is for apparel coats, jackets, suits, dresses, skirts, slacks made from woven fabrics of varying weights and knitted fabrics’.

In the home furnishing area, the major use of wool is in carpets and rugs where wool is used more, cover to the carpets and warm in the rugs. Blends of different synthetic fibres with wool for suiting materials are increasingly important.

This result in fabrics that are more appropriate in warmer conditions. Polyester is the most important fibre used in blending with wool.

Characteristics of Wool Fibers and Products

Anti-static — because wool can absorb moisture vapour, it tends not to create static electricity, so it is less likely to cling uncomfortably to your body than other fabrics.

Anti-wrinkle — at a microscopic level, each wool fibre is like a coiled spring that returns to its natural shape after being bent. This gives wool garments natural wrinkle resistance.

Biodegradable — When wool is disposed of, it will naturally decompose in soil in a matter of months to years, releasing valuable nutrients back into the earth.

Breathable — wool fibres can absorb large quantities of moisture vapour then move it away to evaporate into the air. Wool clothing is extremely breathable and less prone to clamminess.

Elastic — natural elasticity helps wool garments stretch with your body, yet return to their original shape. So fine wool clothing is ideal to wear when exercising.

Fire-resistant — wool is flame retardant, doesn’t melt and stick to the skin, and even self-extinguishes when the source of flame is removed.

Nature’s fibre — Wool is grown year-round from a simple blend of water, air, sunshine and grass.

Odour resistant — in contrast to synthetics, wool can absorb moisture vapour, which means less sweat on your body. They even absorb and locks away the odours from sweat, which are then released during washing.

Renewable — every year sheep produce a new fleece, making wool a completely renewable fibre source

Stain-resistant — wool fibres have a natural protective outer layer that prevents stains from being absorbed. And because wool tends not to generate static, it attracts less dust and lint.

Soft — Wool fibres are extremely fine, enabling them to bend and feel soft and gentle next to your skin.

Sun-safe — wool is much better at protecting skin against UV radiation than most synthetics and cotton. So the whole family will be safer wearing wool on sunny days.

Warm and cool — in contrast to synthetics, wool is an active fibre that reacts to changes in body temperature. So it helps you stay warm when the weather is cold, and cool when the weather is hot.

Summary of Characteristics of Wool Fibers

Wool is a protein fibre that comes from a variety of animals.

Sheering is done by hand, but the manufacturing of wool fabric is done by machine.

Wool is ideal for cool weather garments such as sweaters.

Flame resistant (wool usually extinguishes itself when the source of flame is removed)

Weaker than cotton or linen, especially when wet

Fibres range from one to fourteen inches long

Most valued for its textured appearance and warmth

Must be washed gently or dry cleaned

Can be damaged by chlorine bleach

Moths and carpet beetles eat wool

Springs back into shape after being crushed

An excellent insulator as woollens (80% air)

Absorbs moisture which is held inside the fibre (the wool will still feel dry even on a humid day)

Accepts dyes easily (“dyed in the wool”)

The quality of wool varies with the breed of sheep

Does not attract dirt or static electricity

The wool products labelling Act permits the word “wool” to be used for fibres from sheep, Angora or Cashmere goats, camel, alpaca, llama, and vicuna.

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